It's annoying, sometimes, following fashion through social-media (namely, Tumblr). You're essentially seeing trends develop, become something new and popular. So it's hard to figure out why these upcoming trends are even "new" in the first place. I'm not saying I start trends, or that I'm better than them. Definitely not. Because...let's be real here. I'm not a trend-setter, in any way at all. But I mean, come on, everything was someone's idea at some point, right?

But still, when people "stan" (OMG I hate that word) things, for example, the "goth-ninja" and it becomes an overwhelming repetition of reblogs and posts through photosets and Rick Owens fashion shows, what is actually new about any of it? How is it cool or new anymore? It's just people liking something because of the fact that it's popular at a certain time. And that's just annoying.

And honestly speaking, the fact there is a name for any given style (for example, "goth ninja"????) already defeats the purpose of the organic idea, no? Because really, once you try to achieve a certain look through its trend-name, you've become an artificial manifest of its organic idea. You've become a literal trend. But trends, really, are old.

Anyway, I'm getting too philosophical and I'm thinking way too much about nothing. I'm seriously not hating on trends, because I follow them too.
I went shopping today and tried to buy a pair of New Balance sneakers.
They didn't have my size though :,( 

I feel kind of bad, only in a sorry-not-sorry kind of way, because I haven't posted about Simons' S/S13 collection. But whatever. That's not the point of this post. Raf Simons finally showed his collection and it was fucking brilliant. I was inspired by Prada's A/W13 collection, the retro throwback, and I really wanted more of that. The really easy, familiar idea of it? Elbaz did it in his show for Lanvin A/W12; especially in the high-waisted, flared pants. The 70s? Really?? How is 1970s even appealing to a guy who dresses in all black, oversized coats, skinny leather pants, and occasionally considers getting a tramp-stamp tattoo just for the LolLLs!! But these looks worked. And it was that unexpected spark that Raf Simons brought. And I loved it.

Simons is known for being this super cool, edgy, "minimalist" designer with this style that speaks to all these youth references and etcetera shit. But I mean, let's be real here, everyone loves and knows Simons for his early work. S/S 2002 anyone?? And honestly, it's a shame that people even compare his (or any designer) to their previous archive collections, and say their work hasn't improved. That's so dumb. Collections aren't about progression from previous seasons. They're about the designers' visions and inspirations. And regression is just as necessary as progression.

Raf Simons S/S 2002

And really, the idea of Simons being a "minimalist" designer is just the media giving him this label so they can write about him in an easy and pleasant way. I am not putting him down in any way at all, but come on, he is a designer with his own vision. He knows what he's doing, and we don't need to tell him he is "THIS" when he doesn't need to be. And honestly, I wouldn't wear most of the looks from A/W13. They're not my personal style. But he went so against what was expected (and wanted) from him, that this is why I loved the show - and him - even more. And really it's too new to even consider any irrelevant assumptions about the show and Simons' inspirations, so I'm only talking about my opinions at the moment. But I am so happy and interested that Simons showed us a tailored man for A/W13. Last year, we saw this ultra edgy, cool guy with the drop-crotch-but-still-tailored shorts and trainers from Simons. It was so fucking 2012/2013. This season is completely different, and it's almost as if Simons is teasing his audience. Mocking them. Telling them, "Yo, I'm not a fucking hipster. Sitcha ass down."




Raf Simons A/W 2013

The collection focused on proportions so much, playing with the idea of what works and what doesn't. It was a mess, but in a good way. It was almost satirically funny with the hair styling, reminding me of an anime character? It was just so purposefully and perfectly placed. But honestly, who's watching those animes? Not the people wearing these clothes. So I immediately got the impression Raf Simons is trying to separate himself from his mainstream success. Or at least, with the youth culture. Maybe Simons was trying to blind that border of pretentious fashion, artistic fashion statements, and people who wear fashionable clothing just for the sake of being trendy (namely, his A/W12 collection and A$AP Rocky). There was an obvious statement in this collection, but I don't want to say what that might be, because truthfully, I don't know. His S/S13 collection definitely referenced his previous work, and wanted to go back to that edgy, grunge youth. But the clothing for S/S13 manifested itself so differently than one might expect from the inspirations, it leaves me wondering what A/W13 was about and where the Raf Simons man is heading next. Interestingly enough, and just as a side note to think about, I wrote this entire post about how Simons is separating himself from his success and youth, but the shoes in this collection were a collaboration with Adidas. I don't know. Maybe I have no idea what I'm talking about.

I am very excited to write this post, because personally, I have a slight everything crush on Hedi Slimane and his work. (Of course we can't forget my undying love, animal sacrifices, blood baths, etc for Raf Simons). But Slimane. His work from photography to fashion, has been something I have followed for years. Does anyone recall the legendary "Samurai Fiction" editorial in VOGUE HOMMES JAPAN, July 2008? Well...

(images via Hedi Slimane website)

I know right?? Bloody fucking perfect.
I'll just give you a moment to take all of this in.

(Silence).

Alright. So Slimane is an amazing fashion photographer, obviously. I mean, that editorial is brilliant. He has a certain touch, an amazing way with the camera that is very graphic yet so simple. Something absolutely signature to his style. And truthfully, his talents as a photographer is what sparked my interest in him. I originally noticed his Dior Homme S/S 2005 campaign which, as you can see, is very striking (and noticeably him). The black and white photography, simple background, it was very telling in that minimally romantic way I love. And after obsessively researching his work, I became hooked. A stan?? (Ugh, I loathe that word). His A/W 2007 collection still remains one of my favorite menswear shows of all time. Ever. Second only to Raf Simons A/W 2005. And that is saying a lot, considering most of you probably know how much I absolutely adore Raf Simons' work. Nevertheless, Slimane, has returned to menswear at Yves Saint Laurent, or rather, Saint Laurent Paris, as he so gracefully changed it to. And truth be told, I am ecstatic. He has been out of menswear for awhile now, and I missed that glam rock street edge he manages to pull off so well. The "I really don't give a fuck what you think" attitude he displays through design - it seemed lost somewhere in the lack of our menswear designers. Which might explain why I have such an unexplainable obsession with Raf Simons, considering he is an absolute trailblazer in mens fashion, never recognizing society's limits. But Slimane has returned with all the glorious, rocker chic edge I was craving.


SAINT LAURENT PARIS MENS S/S 2013
(images via YSL website)

Unfortunately, the menswear collection wasn't shown on the runway. I am not sure why, but Slimane did not show his mens or resort collection to the public (as in, critics were also not invited). The show was only open to buyers, which is interesting to say the least. The timing of both presentations was interesting as well, considering Raf Simons debuted his Dior Couture collection during the same week. Anyway, this menswear collection is perfect. I am disappointed that there wasn't a runway show to see, because it so clearly represents Slimane's voice and the YSL man. The suits and tuxedo. Wow. Classically YSL, elegant in its taste, but with that "Skinny Slimane" silhouette we all know and love. Nothing about this is distant from the history of Saint Laurent or Slimane's rock edge. It is a great announcement to his return, and one I am more than willing to hear. Also, I don't know if you saw, but I definitely watched his debut womenswear collection, and it was just...okay. With all the hype and drama surrounding his name at YSL, you would think the debut collection would be a, well, "debut;" but it was hardly that. Nothing new to see, the SS13 collection almost seemed lost in translation. I wasn't sure how to respond to it. But these menswear pieces, even the campaign and photography, it's absolutely Slimane. Perfectly graphic and sublime in its way, all the while our graceful YSL man has never left the fucking building. It really is a great comeback for his menswear.

Hopefully all of the recent drama surrounding him and Cathy Horyn will become an irrelevant happening, and people will move on. Slimane is a relevant mind in today's fashion world, with a distinct point of view for menswear. Personally, I do feel like what he did was unnecessary and immature, but in terms of talent, we can't deny his. Slimane was and always will be one of my first inspirations in the fashion world.